As
you can see, the dealer will bust most often when he has a
5 or 6 as his upcard
and he will bust the least amount, approximately 11% of
the time, when his upcard is an ace. This means it's to
your advantage to stand more often when the dealer's
upcard is a 2 through 6 and hope that the dealer will draw
cards that make him bust. It also means that when the
dealer's upcard is a 7 through ace he will complete more
of his hands and in that situation you should draw cards
until you have a total of 17 or more.
Now let's
show you how to play your hands by using the basic
strategy and we'll start off with the hard hand strategy
and by hard hand I mean a 2-card total without an ace. A
hand with an ace is known as a soft hand because the ace
can be counted as either a 1 or an 11. So, if you had an
ace-6 you would have a soft 17 hand and if you had a 10-6
you would have a hard 16 hand. Later on we. ll take a look
at how to play soft hands, but for now we'll concentrate
on the hard hand totals. Oh yes, one more thing, the basic
strategy I'm going to give you applies to casinos where
they deal more than one deck at a time and the dealer
stands on soft 17 which is the situation you'll find in
the majority of casinos today. So, keep in mind that the
strategy would be slightly different if you were playing
against a single deck and it would also be slightly
different if the dealer hit a soft 17.
Whenever
your first 2 cards total 17 through 21, you should stand,
no matter what the dealer's up card is.
If your
cards total 16, you should stand if the dealer has a 2
through 6 as his upcard, otherwise, draw a card. By the
way, 16 is the worst hand you can have because you will
bust more often with 16 than with any other hand. So, if
that's the case then why would you want to ever hit a 16?
Well, once again, those computer studies have shown that
you should hit a 16 when the dealer has 7 through ace as
his upcard because in the long run you will lose less
often. This means that yes, 16 is a terrible hand, but you
should hit it because if you don't you will lose even more
often than when you do take a card.
If your
cards total 15, you should also stand if the dealer has a
2 through 6 as his upcard otherwise, draw cards until your
total is 17 or more.
The same
rules from 15 and 16 also apply if your cards total 14.
Stand if the dealer has a 2 through 6, otherwise draw
cards until your total is 17 or more. The same rules also
apply if your cards total 13. Stand if the dealer has a 2
through 6, otherwise draw cards until your total is 17 or
more.
When your
cards total 12 you should only stand when the dealer has a
4,5 or 6 as his upcard - remember - those are his 3
weakest cards and he will bust more often with those
cards, so you don't want to take a chance on busting
yourself. If the dealer's upcard is a 2 or a 3, then you
should take just one card and stop on your total of 13 or
more. Finally, if the dealer has a 7 through ace as his
upcard then you should draw cards until your total is 17
or more.
When your
cards total 11 you would always want to hit it because you
can't bust, but before you ask for a card you should
consider making a double down bet. If the casino allows
you to double down then you should do that if the dealer
has anything but an ace as his upcard. After you double
down the dealer would give you just one additional card on
that hand. If the dealer's upcard is an ace then you
shouldn't. t double down. Instead, you should hit the hand
and continue to draw until your total is 17 or more. If
the casino doesn't allow you to double down then you
should just hit your hand and then, depending on your
total, play it by the rules I gave you for the hands that
totaled 12 through 21. So, if you had an 11 and the dealer
had a 5 as his upcard, you should take a card. Then let's
say you draw an ace which gives you a total of 12. Well,
as I said before, if you have a 12 against a dealer's 5
you should stand and that's how you should play that hand.
If your
total is 10 you would, once again, want to double down
unless the dealer showed an ace or a 10. If the dealer had
an ace or a 10 as his upcard you should hit your hand and
then use the standard rules for a hand valued at 12
through 21. So, if you had a 10 and the dealer had an 8 as
his up card you would want to double down and take one
more card. If you weren't allowed to double, then you
would take a hit and let's say you got a 4 for a total of
14. You should then continue to hit your hand until your
total is 17 or more.
If your
total is 9 you would want to double down whenever the
dealer was showing a 3,4,5 or 6 as his upcard. If the
dealer had a 2 as his upcard, or if he had a 7 through ace
as his upcard, you should hit your hand and then use the
standard playing rules as discussed before. So, let's say
you had a 9 and the dealer had a 4 as his upcard you would
want to double down and take one more card. If you
weren't. t allowed to double then you should take a hit
and let's say you got a 2 for a total of 11, you would
then take another hit and let's say you got an ace. That
would give you a total of 12 and, as mentioned
previously, you should stand on 12 against a dealer. s 4.
Finally, if
your total is 8 or less you should always take a card and
then use the standard playing rules that we already
discussed.
Now, let's
take a look at splitting pairs, but keep in mind that the
rules for splitting will change slightly depending on
whether or not the casino will allow you to double down
after you split your cards. Most multiple deck games allow
you to double down after splitting so that's the situation
we'll cover first and then we'll go over the changes if
you're not allowed to double down after splitting.
As noted
earlier, when your first two cards are the same most
casinos will allow you to split them and play them as two
separate hands so let's go over the basic strategy rules
on when you should do this.
The first
thing you should remember is that you always split aces
and 8's. The reason you split aces is obvious because if
you get a 10 on either hand you. ll have a perfect 21, but
remember that you won't get paid for a blackjack at
3-to-2, instead it will be counted as a regular 21 and
you'll be paid at even money. If you have a pair of 8's
you have 16 which is a terrible hand and you can always
improve it by splitting your 8's and playing them as
separate hands.
The next
thing to remember about splitting pairs is that you never
split 5's or 10's. Once again, the reasons should be
rather obvious: you don't want to split 10's because 20 is
a great hand and you don't want to split 5's because 10 is
a great hand to draw to. Instead, you would want to double
down on that 10, unless the dealer was showing a 10 or an
ace as his upcard.
2's, 3's
and 7's should only be split when the dealer is showing a
2 through 7 as his upcard. Split 4's only when the dealer
has a 5 or 6 as his upcard (remember 5 and 6 are his
weakest cards!), 6's should be split whenever the dealer
is showing a 2 through 6 and finally, you should always
split 9's unless the dealer is showing a 7, 10 or ace. The
reason you don't want to split 9's against a 10 or an ace
should be rather obvious, but the reason you don't want to
split them against a 7 is in case the dealer has a 10 as
his hole card because in that case your 18 would beat out
his 17.
If the
casino will not allow you to double down after splitting
then you should make the following three changes: For 2's
and 3's only split them against a 4,5,6 or 7; never split
4's; and for a pair of 6's only split them against a 3,4,5
or 6. Everything else should be played the same.
Now, let's
take a look at how to play soft hands and
remember a soft hand is any hand that contains an ace that
can be counted as 1 or 11. For a soft hand of 19 or more
you should always stand.
For soft 18
against a 2,7 or 8 you should always stand. If the dealer
shows a 9, 10 or an ace you should always take a hit and
for a soft 18 against a 3,4,5 or 6 you should double down,
but if the casino won't allow you to double, then you
should just stand.
For soft 17
you should always take a hit, but if the casino allows you
to double down, then you should double against a dealer's
3,4,5 or 6.
For soft 16
or a soft 15 you should always take a hit, but if the
casino allows you to double down then you should double
against a dealer's 4,5 or 6.
For soft 14
you should always take a hit, but if the casino allows you
to double down then you should double against a dealer's 5
or 6.
Finally,
for a soft 13 you should always take a hit, but if the
casino allows you to double down then you should double
against a dealer's 5 or 6.
The last
thing we need to cover is surrender which, as mentioned
before, isn't offered in many casinos, but it is an option
that does work in your favor and if available, you should
play in a casino that offers it. The surrender rules are
very simple to remember and only apply to hard totals of
15 or 16. If you have a hard 16 you should surrender it
whenever the dealer has a 9, 10 or ace as his upcard and
if you have a hard 15 you should surrender it whenever the
dealer has a 10 as his upcard. That's all there is to
surrender.
Now that
you know how to play the game and you have an
understanding of the basic strategy let's take a quick
look at how the rules variations can affect the game of
blackjack. As I said before, various computer studies have
been made on blackjack and these studies have shown that
each rule change can either hurt or help the player by a
certain amount. For example, a single-deck game where you
can double on any first two cards (but not after splitting
pairs), the dealer stands on soft 17 and no surrender is
allowed has no advantage for the casino when using the
basic strategy. That's right, in a game with those rules
in effect the game is dead even and neither the casino nor
the player has an edge!
Take a look
at the following chart and you'll see how some rules
changes can hurt you or help you as a player. Minus signs
in front mean that the casino gains the edge by that
particular amount while plus signs mean that you gain the
edge by that amount.
RULES
THAT HURT YOU
RULES THAT HELP YOU
|
Two
decks
|
-0.35%
|
Double
after split
|
+0.13%
|
|
Four
decks
|
-0.48%
|
Late
surrender
|
+0.06%
|
|
Six
decks
|
-0.54%
|
Resplit
Aces
|
+0.14%
|
|
Eight
decks
|
-0.58%
|
Double
anytime
|
+0.20%
|
|
Dealer
hits soft 17
|
-0.20%
|
No
soft doubling
|
-0.14%
|
As you can
see, it's always to your advantage to play against as few
decks as possible. The house edge goes up substantially as you go
from 1 deck to 2, but the change is less dramatic when you go from 2 to 4, or from 4
to 6, and it's barely noticeable when you go from 6 to 8. You can also see that
you would prefer not to play in a casino where the dealer hits a soft 17 because
that gives the dealer a slight edge. You would also want to play in a casino where
you're allowed to double down on your soft hands or else you would be giving another
added edge to the casino.
You can also
see from these charts that you would want to play in a
casino where you were allowed to double down after splitting cards and
you would also want to play in a casino that offered surrender. The other two rules
variations that help the player are somewhat rare but they were put in to show you
how these rules changes can affect your odds in the game. Some casinos will
allow you to resplit aces again if you draw an ace to one of your original aces
and this works to your advantage. Also, some casinos will allow you to double down
on any number of cards rather than just the first two. In other words, if you
got a 2- 4-3-2 as your first four cards you would then be allowed to double down on your
total of 11 before receiving your 5th card. If they allow you to do this then,
once again, you have a rule that works in your favor.
The point of
showing you these charts is to help you understand that when
you have a choice of places to play you should always choose the
casino that offers the best rules. So, if you find a single-deck game with good rules
you could be playing an even game by using the basic strategy, or at worst be giving
the casino an edge of less than one-half of 1%.
Now, there is
one way that you can actually have the edge working in your
favor when you play blackjack and that's by becoming a card
counter. As mentioned before, card counting is not for the average person but I do
think it's important that you understand the concept of card counting and if you think
you'd like to learn more about counting cards then it is something you can
follow up on later.
Many people
think that to be a card counter you have to have a
photographic memory and remember every single card that's been played.
Fortunately, it's not quite that difficult. Actually, the main concept behind card
counting is the assumption that the dealer will bust more often when there
are a lot of 10's in the deck and that he will complete more hands when there are a
lot of smaller cards in the deck. Now, if you stop to think about it, it makes sense
doesn't it? After all, the dealer has to play by set rules that make him take a card
until he has a total of 17 or more. If there are a lot of 2's, 3's and 4's in the deck
the dealer won't bust very often when he draws cards, but if there are a lot of 10's in
the deck then chances are he will bust more often when he is forced to draw cards.
The card
counter tries to take advantage of this fact by keeping a
running total of the cards that have been played to give him an idea of what
kind of cards remain in the deck. If there are a lot of 10 cards remaining in the
deck then the counter will bet more money because the odds are slightly in his favor.
Of course, if there are a lot of small cards remaining then the counter would only
make a small bet because the odds would be slightly in favor of the dealer. Another
thing that the card counter can do is to change his basic strategy to take advantage of
the differences in the deck.
There are at
least a dozen different card counting systems but let's take
a quick look at a relatively simple one (it's also the most popular)
and it's called the high-low count. With this system you assign a value of +1 to all 2's,
3's, 4's, 5's and 6's, while all 10's, Jacks, Queen, Kings and Aces are assigned a
value of -1. The remaining cards: 7, 8 and 9 have no value and are not
counted.
+1 = 2, 3, 4,
5, 6
-1 = 10, J, Q,
K, A
When you look
at these numbers you'll see that there are an equal number
of cards in each group: there are five cards valued at +1 and five
cards valued at -1. This means that they balance each other out and if you go through
the deck and add them all together the end result will always be a total of
exactly zero.
What a card
counter does is to keep a running total of all the cards as
they're played out and whenever the total has a plus value he knows
that a lot of small cards have appeared and the remaining deck is rich in 10's
which is good for the player. But, if the total is a minus value then the counter
knows that a lot of 10-value cards have appeared and the remaining deck must be rich in
low cards which is bad for the player. To give you an example of how to count let's
say the following cards have been dealt on the first hand from a single deck:
2, 3, 3, 4, 5,
5, 5, 6, = +8
J, K, Q, A, =
-4
Total = +4
As you can
see, there were eight plus-value cards and four minus-value
cards which resulted in a total count of +4. This means that there are
now four more 10-value cards than low cards remaining in the deck and the advantage
is with the player. Naturally, the higher the plus count, the more advantageous
it is for the player and counters would be proportionally increasing their bets as
the count got higher. The card counter would also be using the same basic strategy we
spoke about previously, except for certain instances where a slight
change would be called for.
On the other
hand, if the count is negative, a card counter will always
bet the minimum amount. Of course, they would prefer not to bet at
all, but the casinos don't like you to sit at their tables and not bet so the
counter has to bet something and the minimum is the least they can get by with.
There is one
more important thing to explain about card counting and it's
called the true count. The true count is a measure of the
count per deck rather than a running count of all the cards that have been
played and to get the true count you simply divide the running count by the number of decks
remaining to be played. As an illustration, let's say you're playing in a 6-deck game
and the count is +9. You look at the shoe and estimate that 3 decks remain to be
played. You then divide the count of +9 by 3 to get +3 which is the true count.
As another
example, let's say you're in an 8-deck game with a count of
+12 and there are 6 decks left to be played. You divide +12 by 6 to
get +2 which is the true count. To put it another way, a +2 count in a double-deck
game with 1 deck left to be played is the same as a +4 count in a 4-deck game with 2
decks left to be played, which is the same as a +6 count is a 6-deck game
with 3 decks left to be played, which is the same as a +12 count in an 8-deck game
with 6 decks left to be played.
For the card
counter it is crucial to always take the running count and
then divide it by the number of decks remaining in order to get the true
count because all betting and playing decisions are based on the true count rather
than the running count.
Of course, if
you're playing in a single-deck game the running count and
the true count are initially the same. The more you get into the
deck, however, the more weight is given to the running count because there is less
than one deck remaining. So, if the running count was +3 and only a 1/2-deck remained
you would calculate the true count by dividing +3 by 1/2 (which is the same as
multiplying by 2/1, or 2) to get a true count of +6. As another example, if the
running count was +2 and about 2/3 of the deck remained you would divide +2 by 2/3
(the same as multi-plying by 3/2 or, 1 and 1/2) to get +3.
As you can
see, the count becomes much more meaningful as you get
closer to the last cards in the deck and that's why casinos never deal
down to the end. Instead, the dealer will insert a plastic card about 2/3 or
3/4 of the way in the deck and when that card is reached the dealer will finish that
particular round and then shuffle the cards. How far into the deck(s) that plastic
card is inserted is known as the penetration point and card counters always
look for a dealer that offers good penetration. The card counter knows that the further into
the deck(s) the plastic card is placed the more meaningful the true count will be
and the more advantageous it will be for the card counter.
So, now that
you know how those card counters keep track of the cards,
what kind of advantage do you think they have over the casino? Well,
not too much. Depending on the number of decks used, the rules in force,
and the skill of the counter, it could be as much as 2% but that would be at the
high end. Probably 1% would be closer to the actual truth. This means that for
every $1,000 in bets that are made the card counter will win $10. Not exactly a huge
amount but there are people out there who do make a living playing the game.
|